Yes, the Kentucky Derby is worth it. It’s bucket list. That’s why you’re reading this. The Kentucky Derby is iconic for many reasons. “The Greatest Two Minutes in Sports” brings anywhere from 150,000- 170,000 people together to watch the best 3-year-old horses in the world race for the money and prestige. This race has been running for 144 years and the history makes this extra special, a commitment to tradition. The fashion, the pageantry, the party, the celebrities, the horses, the atmosphere.
Those twenty minutes from the singing of My Old Kentucky Home to when they load in the gates, the noise rising, people standing on their seats craning their necks, looking at each other with shared anticipation and awe at the joy in this moment with strangers. We gather as we have for millennia, an ancient call to their chase. The split second of jarring stillness until the gates clang and the horses bolt with primal decisiveness; long before we rode they were born to win the flee. The roar of the crowd and the thundering hooves- simply, there is nothing else quite like it.
Thurby
Yet, fittingly, there is a bit more to the spectacle than simply grabbing a hat and a mint julep and waiting all day for this race. Days of revelry await before the king is crowned. Thurby (Thursday Derby) kicks off smaller stakes races and the locals covet their territory. This is “Oaks Day before Churchill started giving out two day ticket passes and all the out-of-towners came in and ruined it.” Of course, Churchill Downs’ direct ticket packages now include all three days, and residents’ secret retreat from the masses is yet again under siege. They do it right: still dressy, live music, less crowds, easier to get around, and fairly open seating.
Oaks
Oaks (Friday) gives the official hysteria a kick-off with a nod to the ladies, both human and equine, and features major races with major contenders. This is a day when crowds flaunt their pink couture. No matter your gender or comfort with the hue, you best put some on. The culmination of Oaks Day is, of course, the Oaks race, where the fillies (the best young females in the world) run for glory. When it comes to the horse breeding world, Momma’s pedigree is just as important (if not more some would argue) than Poppa’s and the stakes to distinguish yourself are high. For the uninitiated masses, the horses matter less than the party, and this is dress rehearsal for the greatest show.
Derby Day
Derby Day. A quick lesson straight from the heart of Louisville. One simply does not say “the Derby” when speaking about the entire event. “The Derby” is the race itself. The event is simply “Derby.” (The Brits protest this entirely, noting the actual “Derby” is in England where it first originated.) Most people pay no mind to the distinction, but if you want a particular look of appreciation from those in the know, watch your “the.” Then again, not vomiting and not passing out on the bathroom floor is really the mark everyone should be shooting for. This day is not a sprint, and the Downs deserve your dignity.
First post (when the riders come to the gate for the first race) is normally around 10:30am. Both the Derby and Oaks races take place in the evening with a few races after them while the crowds disperse. When you buy tickets direct you get the whole package. You’ll have to decide how long of a race day you want and how many days you want to attend. If you’re here for the revelry, there is no need to arrive before noon. If you want to understand why this place is revered by some, arrive early. Watch the vast, empty stands build an unrelenting crescendo across the day. That is where the magic lies.
Perhaps you’d like to throw a bet at this madness for an extra adrenaline jolt. If you’re the betting type you can make a win bet, place bet (2nd), or show bet (3rd). You can also try an exacta (picking the horse to win first and the horse to win second) or a trifecta (picking the horses that win first, second, and third.) When you “box” an exacta or trifecta, you don’t have to worry about which order the horses win in as long as you pick the winners. You’ll just pay a bit more for the different variations and make less if you box it. It’s all a numbers game, and frankly, that’s why I travel with people who like to run numbers. (I suppose marriage is another reason I travel with one of them.)
Experience it. Discover the word millenary. Puzzle over a racing program, slowly building confidence at its hieroglyphics. Feel seersucker. Decide whether you will say “Lou-a-vull” or “Lewey-ville.” Eat a Hot Brown. Place your first, tentative trifecta. Love or loathe the julep. Joyously sing a collective song you barely know. Make friends of strangers. Balance precariously on your bleacher as you all stand to see the pre-race gates, surfing the sudden, inebriated jolts of your neighbors. Strain to see the leap. The gates are open. The race is on.
May the road rise to meet you, travelers, and may you still find things that make your heart pound in awe.
(Down and Derby: get more tips on getting tickets, lodging, what to wear, and navigating the big day in the rest of the Down and Derby series.)
